During filming of Climbing in the Future, Cédric Lachat travels back in time to Saussois to shoot footage on Chimpanzodrome, a blast from the past and one of climbing’s original hard sport routes.
This legendary 15-meter high route in Saussois (rated 7c+ // 5.13a) was the second hardest route in France back in the day. Bolted in 1979 by Jean-Claude Droyer – considered the father of free climbing in France – it generated a healthy rivalry between those who wanted to be the first to free the route.
In 1981, Jean-Pierre Bouvier, aka “la Mouche” (the Fly), was the first to send the route. He paved the way for other talented climbers from Paris, including JB Tribout, the Le Menestrel brothers, Jacky Godoffe, and many more who came to test their mettle and make this such an iconic line.
After that, this legendary route, considered way ahead of its time, became their testing ground and climbed in a variety of different ways: barefoot, solo, and even blindfolded!
Cedric Lachat talks about onsighting Chimpanzodrome:
“For my part, the challenge was simply to successfully onsight the route. A great effort for me that was no small feat; even though I’ve onsighted 8c and redpointed 9b, this route was not at all an easy onsight. And now, to measure up to the climbing legends of the past, all I need to do is solo it barefoot and blindfolded!”
And now, to measure up to the climbing legends of the past, all I need to do is solo it barefoot and blindfolded!
